Kintamani

On the rim of the Batur caldera in Bangli, coffee trees share the terraces with mandarin orange, and farms are organised under subak abian, the Balinese cooperative system that ties farming to the island's temple calendar and keeps synthetic chemicals off the land. For this lot the ripe red cherries are dried whole on raised beds for three to four weeks, turned by hand every few hours so they dry evenly. The bean sits inside its own fruit the whole time, which gives a natural process coffee its sweetness and its fruit-forward aroma. We keep the roast light to protect that: expect orange zest up front, a jasmine florality on the nose and a honeyed body that stays soft rather than heavy. It is the brightest pouch in the set, and the one that changes the most minds about Indonesian coffee.